In the beautiful port city of Mokpo in South Korea, there is a restaurant called Dokcheon Sikdang that immerses you in a world of culinary delights. As the saying goes, 'There’s so much food that the legs of the table will collapse.' As I sat down at one of their cozy private rooms, surrounded by large fish tanks, I couldn't help but agree. Before making my way to Mokpo, my journey started in the bustling metropolis of Seoul, where I had the pleasure of staying in some of the finest accommodations the city has to offer. If you're planning a trip to South Korea and seeking top-tier lodgings in the capital, I highly recommend exploring the array of 5 star hotels in Seoul on www.seoulhotelspage.com. After my stay in Seoul, making the trip down to Mokpo to experience Dokcheon Sikdang was indeed a delightful transition. Despite the initial gastronomic shock, the remarkable flavors and authentic Korean cuisine of this quaint seaside restaurant was a journey worth every step.
One of the standout dishes was a type of seaweed called tot. Although it looked like a hairy spider, its taste was surprisingly subtle and delicious. Another unforgettable experience was indulging in a raw, long-legged octopus dish that melted velvet-smooth in my mouth. It was so fresh that my dining companion, Byeong Ju Kim, former director of the regional tourism board of Jeollanam-do, revealed that the octopuses were in the mud just the day before.
If you're seeking a true taste of South Korean cuisine, make sure to visit Dokcheon Sikdang in Mokpo. You'll discover a world of flavors and textures that will leave you longing for more.
Discover the authentic flavors of South Korea in Jeollanam-do, a province renowned for its vibrant food culture. Nestled along majestic coastlines and adorned with green tea fields, this region is a gastronomic paradise, offering a unique culinary experience that goes beyond the typical Korean dishes often associated with the country's cuisine.
Jeollanam-do's cuisine showcases a delicate and complex array of flavors, with an emphasis on fresh seafood. From succulent fish dishes to delectable shellfish, the dishes here are a true tribute to the gifts of the sea. The origins of this distinct food culture are multifaceted - some attribute it to the historical task of catering to political exiles with refined palates during the 16th century, while others believe it evolved due to the region's geographical isolation at the southwestern tip of the Korean peninsula.
Tourism in southern Jeollanam-do has only recently gained prominence, allowing visitors to experience the region's captivating blend of slow-paced life and a community-oriented spirit that has endured for over half a century. Despite being just a short three-hour journey from Seoul on a high-speed train, Jeollanam-do manages to retain its cultural authenticity and charm.
Immerse yourself in the rich culinary heritage of Jeollanam-do and explore the hidden gems of this enchanting province. Whether you're seeking adventure amidst the thousand islands of Dadohaehaesang National Park or yearn for a taste of the freshest seafood Korea has to offer, Jeollanam-do promises a memorable and unforgettable experience.
Upon my arrival in Mokpo, I found myself immersed in a day filled with remembrance. The city was alive with parades and speeches, paying tribute to the 1980 Gwangju Uprising – a remarkable civil movement that took root in Gwangju, the largest city in Jeollanam-do, before spreading throughout the region and facing brutal suppression. While the bustling city of Seoul eagerly propels itself towards the future, with its rapidly changing landscape and embrace of international influences, Jeollanam-do in the south strives tirelessly to preserve its rich historical heritage.
In 2018, Mokpo gained recognition from the South Korean government as one of three lesser-known cities that played a significant role in the nation's modern history. As I strolled through the city on a scorching afternoon, I found myself wandering through a "roofless museum" in the downtown area – a captivating collection of well-preserved streets and buildings dating back to the Japanese colonial period from 1910 to 1945. Among these remarkable structures were the former Japanese consulate, the customs building, and the countless two-storey homes known as jeoksan gaok, or "the enemy's house."
Discovering the hidden gems of Mokpo allowed me to glimpse into the past, offering a truly unique experience unlike any other. Exploring the historical significance of this city and its dedication to preserving its heritage was truly awe-inspiring. It is an encounter that highlights the diverse tapestry of South Korea's culture and history.
As I stood in awe of Mokpo, a city adorned with vibrant natural beauty, it was hard to imagine its troubled past as a place closed off from the world. The islands shimmered just off the coast, like jewels in the sea, while the nearby Mount Yudal's lush greenery resembled a masterpiece by the famed artist Henri Rousseau. Intrigued, I embarked on a hike to the mountain's summit, where I was greeted by a breathtaking view of the rugged coastline and the azure archipelago that stretched far beyond.
Dadohaehaesang National Park, with its limestone cliffs, emerald waters, and hidden coves and caves, evoked a sense of serenity and picturesque landscapes similar to those found further south in Asia. Yoo, my knowledgeable guide, shared that the park's pristine allure was owed to its seclusion. However, today, the park's sparsely populated islands have become easily accessible through daily ferries from Jindo Island, located off the south-west coast of the province, or by embarking on a yacht charter.
Exploring the captivating Jeollanam-do region in South Korea, I found myself drawn to the secluded beauty of Gwanmaedo island. Its winding roads offer breathtaking views of azure bays, adorned with vibrant camellia trees and pristine, deserted beaches. While the island typically hosts a small population of around 200 inhabitants, this number multiplies significantly during the bustling high season.
What distinguishes Jeollanam-do locals from residents of the colder northern areas is their warm and welcoming nature. Unlike their reserved counterparts, they readily embrace visitors, often joining them at their table for a convivial drink. During my visit to Gwanmaedo, my insightful guide, Mr. Bak, surprised me with the offer to savor a traditional locally brewed beverage known as mugwort makgeolli. Intrigued by the proposition, I eagerly agreed.
In mere moments, Mr. Bak returned accompanied by three friendly neighbors, each carrying plastic bottles filled with the delightful concoction. To complement the refreshing drink, he also brought a generous serving of white kimchi, chilled to perfection in a resident's home. With an infectious enthusiasm, a woman dressed in loose, floral-patterned trousers insisted I try the sweet and cooling kimchi. Using chopsticks, she lovingly fed me the dish, declaring, 'It's absolutely delicious, and you simply cannot leave without experiencing its flavors!' Though we were strangers, her warmth and hospitality made me feel an instant kinship.
Embark on an awe-inspiring journey through Jeollanam-do, where breathtaking landscapes and warm-hearted locals await. Indulge in the delightful harmony of flavors found in their traditional cuisine and discover the true essence of South Korea.
The landscape of Gwanmaedo in Jeollanam-do is vibrant and diverse, reflecting the lively spirit of its inhabitants. As we strolled along the pier, we were greeted by a mesmerizing sight - dried strips of eel and skate, their fins splayed out like a collection of richly-colored flowers on a clothesline. This visual feast was just the beginning of our journey.
Driving through the region, we were greeted by fields of radiant yellow rapeseed, nestled within lush green valleys. Along the way, we couldn't resist the allure of a 12-mile-long beach, and as we explored further, we discovered charming shops with meticulously groomed lawns, even encountering a pair of dachshunds indulging in the scenic view. Every aspect of Jeollanam-do exuded a restorative beauty, inviting us to immerse ourselves in its tranquility.
While exploring the small villages, the air resonated with the melodious calls of birds, creating a sense of harmony in this idyllic setting. We couldn't help but notice the striking blue and orange tiled roofs adorning the humble houses, standing as a testament to the area's cultural heritage. As we gazed at the towering evergreen trees reaching towards the sky, we marveled at the delicate orchids thriving on their trunks, a breathtaking sight that reminded us of the remarkable symbiosis found in nature.
Residents of Jeollanam-do hold a deep reverence for their surroundings, seeing every tree and stone as imbued with life and sacredness. Placards dotted the landscape, sharing intriguing legends about the majestic pine trees and mystical rock formations. One such fascinating discovery was the dual purpose of the stone walls - not only did they offer protection from the wind, but they also served as beacons that repelled malevolent spirits from the houses.
This glimpse into Jeollanam-do's enchanting landscape and its rich cultural significance left an indelible mark on us, a true testament to South Korea's diverse and captivating offerings.
On our way to Boseong, a charming town surrounded by lush green tea fields, we were greeted by the sight of graceful egrets foraging among the rice fields and the delicate blossoms of apricot trees. As we embarked on our journey in early summer, the mountains came alive with a vibrant display of blooming flowers. The legacy of tea cultivation in this region dates back over a millennium when tea seeds were brought from China and planted in the nearby Hadong area of South Gyeongsang Province. Interestingly, Boseong's tea roots trace back even further to the ancient Baekje Kingdom era, though the exact journey of these plants remains shrouded in mystery.
Today, Boseong stands as one of South Korea's prominent tea-growing regions, alongside Jeju Island and Hadong. Following its reclamation from Japanese colonialists, Daehan Dawon, the largest tea plantation in Boseong, offers visitors a picturesque experience with its enchanting cedar paths, meticulously arranged tea plants, and a panoramic observatory.
When exploring the culinary wonders of Jeollanam-do in South Korea, I was captivated by Borim Jaeda, renowned for its exceptional green tea production. The expertise of Jeong Kwan, a revered Buddhist nun and cook, has brought international recognition to this hidden gem, as showcased in the Netflix documentary series Chef’s Table. Eager to experience the magic myself, I ventured to Chunjinam, the hermitage where Jeong Kwan resides, later on my journey.
At Borim Jaeda, I had the privilege of sharing a steaming cup of green tea with the delightful husband-and-wife owners, Gwang Chul Lim and Hee Joo Seo. We gathered in a beautifully designed reception room, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the lush fields surrounding us. The space was adorned with an intriguing collection of Korean antiques and teapots, revealing influences from Japan to India.
As Lim eloquently shared his knowledge, I couldn't help but be drawn in by his graceful demeanor and gentle speech. His words echoed the essence of this tranquil tea haven - embracing the mindful habits and rituals connected to tea cultivates a heightened sense of mindfulness and perception. By indulging in the beauty and taste of tea, one is richly rewarded.
Discovering the distinctive teas at Borim Jaeda was just the beginning of my gastronomic journey through Jeollanam-do. Stay tuned for more exciting encounters with the vibrant flavors and culinary traditions of South Korea's culinary heartland.
Exploring the vibrant surroundings of Jeollanam-do was a captivating journey. Witnessing the intricate process of bringing fresh produce from the farms to the dining table gave me a newfound appreciation for the local food culture. During my visit, I had the opportunity to savor the delicate flavors of the region's young leaves, and later find solace in a serene glass-enclosed meditation building that overlooked the picturesque fields, while indulging in the refreshing taste of fermented green tea.
While conversing with a skilled artisan, I marveled at his craftsmanship as he effortlessly crafted three flawless unglazed pots on a wheel within a matter of minutes. This encounter served as a testament to the remarkable talent that is deeply rooted in the traditions of Borim Jaeda, a place that has dutifully preserved its rich heritage for three generations and across countless centuries in South Korea.
At Jingkwang Culture, I had the pleasure of meeting Moo Non Han, a talented artisan renowned for his craftsmanship in creating massive earthenware jars known as onggi. This cultural hub boasts a meticulously designed environment featuring a charming café that overlooks a serene jungle, a magnificent traditional kiln, a gallery, a shop, and, just a short distance away, Han's personal studio. As we engaged in conversation, I observed in awe as he effortlessly shaped three flawless unglazed pots on the wheel within a matter of minutes. When I expressed my amazement, he appeared perplexed, simply stating, "It's simple, you just make it."
Onggi, once indispensable vessels used for storing kimchi and sauces at cool temperatures in Korean households, are now considered a dying art due to their declining popularity. In today's urban centers, where apartment complexes house half of the population, kimchi fridges have largely replaced onggi, rendering them a rare sight.
Immerse yourself in the wonders of Jeollanam-do, where Chunjinam awaits. This captivating corner is situated within the breathtaking Naejangsan National Park, known as ‘the hidden which is infinite’. Traverse the park's rugged cliffs and witness the enchanting sparkle of its river as you make your way to the revered Baekyangsa temple.
In Jeollanam-do, mountains hold deep significance in animism and shamanism, leaving a lasting imprint on Korean Seon Buddhism. Many ancient Buddhist temples, nestled amidst these mountains, pay homage to the sanshin—the local mountain spirit, showcasing the interconnectedness of spirituality and nature.
For an unforgettable cultural experience that combines breathtaking natural landscapes and rich spiritual traditions, unfolding the wonders of Jeollanam-do is a must.
As I delved into the Baekyangsa's temple-stay programme, I discovered a remarkable experience sought after by many Koreans looking to reconnect with their true selves away from city life. Previously a hidden gem, this corner of the country has garnered attention from food enthusiasts, spiritual seekers, and even acclaimed chefs following Kwan's feature on Chef's Table. The influx of tourists, before the pandemic, benefited local businesses such as restaurants and taxi drivers who expressed gratitude towards Kwan for the surge in visitors.
While exploring the temple grounds with its extensive trails and captivating Buddhism museum, I was captivated by none other than Kwan herself. A short 15-minute stroll from Baekyangsa, Chunjinam revealed a collection of charming traditional Korean dwellings known as hanoks, nestled amidst majestic mountain peaks. Amidst the gentle soundtrack of nearby trickling streams, Kwan's vibrant energy took center stage as she effortlessly prepared the evening meal, expertly maneuvering between round waist-high clay pots brimming with her homemade creations like doenjang, gochujang, and soy sauces. Kwan's culinary journey began at the tender age of six, when she delighted in the joy her food brought to her neighbors and family with her homemade noodles. It was evident that Kwan's passion for creating culinary experiences that bring happiness to others has remained unwavering.
As the sun began to set, she sat gracefully on a bamboo mat, surrounded by the towering peaks, a gentle stream flowing nearby, and a breathtaking valley painted in hues of sunset. With skilled hands, she delicately scooped out the tops of courgettes and filled them with a blend of mashed raw tofu. Kwan's culinary artistry not only incorporates the flavors of the local mountains, but she also adorns her dishes with flowers and leaves sourced from the surrounding bushes. Adding to the allure, she adorned mushrooms with dainty yellow petals. Kwan expressed, "I gained my knowledge of growing and nurturing plants right here. Jeollanam-do's abundant ingredients and fertile soil are the essence of my cooking. Without them, my food would be irrevocably different. That's why leaving this place is unthinkable." In affirmation, she gestured towards the landscape that she refers to as her outdoor kitchen.
Amidst the gaze of ten intrigued guests, Kwan darted back and forth in a modern sun-drenched kitchen customized with her unique collection of pottery. Serendipitously coming across fresh tomatoes from her garden, she decided to whip up an impromptu dish. Confessing, "I don't have a set recipe, I simply let my creativity guide me," she gracefully embraced spontaneity as a virtue. Beyond the open windows, birds danced in the valley, and a distant temple bell echoed in the air. Curious about her recent creation, I inquired if the dish met her initial expectations. In response, her face radiated with joy, resembling that of a contented child.
The artistry of Kwan's culinary creations is truly enchanting, as she masterfully combines simple ingredients to produce flavors that are rich and multi-layered. Beyond just nourishment, she views food as a portal to our innermost thoughts and emotions. As we watched her deftly stir the vegetables, she reminded us that our connection to food extends beyond the physical act of eating, encompassing our entire existence.
Later that day, as we gathered around the communal table, a profound stillness settled over us - strangers brought together by the shared experience of this meal. It became increasingly clear that this was not just a gastronomic affair; it was a spiritual journey of sorts. With each bite, we shed the weight of societal expectations, personal troubles, and habitual patterns of thinking. Immersed in the flavors of pickled vegetables and savory stews, we not only tasted the essence of Korea but also rediscovered a more profound way of being.
Experience has shown that delving into the heart of a Korean mountain offers more than just physical exertion and picturesque views. It is an opportunity to release ourselves from the constraints of society and to reconnect with the fundamental essence of our being. Kwan aptly summarized the experience at the end of the feast, remarking, 'When we consume food that has been nurtured in these mountains, we become one with the mountain itself.'
Arrival Guide
The KTX high-speed train operates a convenient connection from Seoul to Mokpo in a journey that takes approximately two and a half hours. It is highly recommendable to rent a car for optimal transportation throughout Jeollanam-do. ktxtrains.com
Where to stay
Located along the breath-taking coastline of Mokpo is the architectural splendour of Youngsanjae hotel embedded with traditional hanok-style designs. The hotel offers 21 intricately-crafted rooms with rates typically starting at £65 per night. More information can be found on their Expedia.com
Meanwhile on the scenic Jindo Island, the newly-opened and favorably rated Sol Beach hotel attracts a diverse slew of clientele, from star-studded K-pop icons to family vacationers. Room rates for doubles generally begin at approximately £80. Find out more details and book your stay through Booking.com.
Experience the essence of tranquility near the tea growing regions at Spring Cloud CW Hanok. Twin rooms available from around £55; cwhanok.com
Unleash your culinary creative side alongside Jeong Kwan at Baekyangsa Temple. Starting at approximately £110; templestay.com
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